Drop-Shoulder Overshirt 1835-1879
The overshirt was the immediate descendant of the farmer's work smock, which it replaced about 1830 or so. Victorian-men had to maintain modesty by keeping the shirt mostly covered up, even while engaged in strenuous manual labor such as construction work, farming, or burning Kansas towns. The overshirt was a practical way for the laboring man to dress, especially while actually doing the dirty work, as it was less expensive as well as less constrictive than a coat and vest. They also had the advantage of big pockets, if required. Overshirts can be collarless, as shown here, or they can be collared and placket fronted. Overshirts can be easily identified in period photos and paintings because, unlike regular shirts, overshirts almost always have pockets. Also, standard shirts are almost always worn under the overshirt, as in the photos. A number of photos show men wearing coats and even vests layered over the overshirt. This is one of the earliest styles of overshirt

Overshirts were often left plain, but many times they were decorated; depending on the time, place, and individual, they might have simple trim of gros grain tape, ribbon and brass tacks (Jesse James), or elaborate heavy embroidery around the neck and pockets. Many militia units in Britain, America, and Texas, wore a collared version of the overshirt with or without a pleated front or collar, beginning in the late 1830's. Heavily embroidered overshirts are closely associated with Missouri guerrilla fighters in the 1850's and 1860's. Photos show Texas Rangers in the mid-1870's wearing very similar overshirts and one Frontier Battalion ranger mentions in his memoirs that his company wore overshirts under short Mexican jackets. This uncollared and unplacquetted overshirt had faded from the scene by 1880.

The overshirt was in no way limited to bushwackers, gunfighters, Texas Rangers, or militia units. The overshirt was everyday wear for millions of working men for decades and just as it had replaced the farmer's smock, by 1890 it was in turn replaced as an overgarment by pullover denim jumpers, different styles of which were made by the Levi Strauss company and its competitors.

Price: $85

Sizes: Medium, Large, X-Large

Maroon wool flannel drop-shoulder overshirt, trimmed at the neck and pockets with black gros grain tape. The young fellow is lightly armed with a selection of Colt's improved revolving pistols.
Above: Young Jesse James, Missouri guerilla, wearing a wool overshirt trimmed with ribbon and brass tacks.
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Gros Grain Trimmed Overshirt